I have written almost as many blogs as books I've read! Just finished the Harry Potter series(amazing, and now I understand what I was missing out on when they came out) and have read 95 books and this is my 101st message. I think my free leisure time is something I will miss! The problem is that they are a trade off here: internet or book reading, because of frequent power outages. And I like to keep my room closed and dark during the day to keep the heat out, but then I can't read! Oh, the dilemas of PC life!
After Touba, I hydrated and met with a few work partners before heading off to Dakar for a long weekend. That seems to be happening more and more often. I went in on Friday since we had a Dakar regional meeting on Saturday and needed some pool time and stayed in until Wednesday. I swam to a nearby island as practice for the upcoming Isle de Goree 5k swim in August. The swim was enjoyable, but rather polluted: I had to keep dodging plastic bags! Since the PC house was over capacity, I was went over to hang out with a friend who stays at an expat's luxurious apartment. Why I haven't signed up for this sooner, I don't know. Expats in Dakar work at the Embassy or NGOs or elsewhere and always live in a little America. They usually are pretty disconnected from our way of life, but this particular woman was a PCV in what used to be Zaire and understands us perfectly. Well, she has satalite TV, Wii, internet, free long distance to America, air conditioning and the most comfortable couch! Like I said, I stuck around until Wednesday! But you can't say I was unproductive - I now have a resume that is not too bad! Not like I am in a hurry to send it out but, hey, it's a start!
So yesterday I fell right back into my daily routine here. I went to greet everyone in my old neighborhood and think it's almost better that I moved since I am gone so often for many days at a time, and this way, they don't always realize it. Matar was happy because I delivered his order of 12 bags and a hoodie to my friend in Dakar and gifted him with money and another hoodie order. I should check up on his accounting books again, but for the most part, he's got the hang of it.
I returned the wheelbarrows to the mayor's office. Haha, that attracted a bit of attention! I'm about a 10 minute walk to the office and rolled one wheelbarrow inside of the other all the way there at 5pm. Everyone kept saying, "Ouria, that's heavy, where is your male work partner?" Yet none of them offered to help... let's blame the heat and not their laziness. The guardian at the office was impressed and said this wasn't normally woman's work but I was a warrier! Returning them was just another step closer to closing down my project. I really do hope my replacement will work with the mayor's office and try again with this project, since everyone in the neighborhood is so disappointed it didn't work out but that's not for me to decide.
I have been talking with my Matar and a few other friends about how I want to move my replacement back to the original neighborhood I was in, but in a different house. I want a busy house with a Wolof family who's home every day and a nice room, location and all that. I got an email from my new boss who has never been to Bambey saying she wanted to come visit and meet the new host family and counterpart next Friday. I was worried I couldn't get it done but actually it worked out well. We visited 2 places and I had another in mind but no need. The next volunteer is going to be very happy, even if they are so close to my old place they may hear that dog of mine bark! It a new house with a room 3x what I have for less money. The family is popular and has a son Matar knows well who lives in Italy. The location is great, and honestly, I'm jealous!
So today I did nothing but get dirty! I woke up early and went to my compost site and brought home a bunch of compost. This is the kind of stuff you pay extra money for in the States! It's really rich, black dirt and was still warm. I filled about 12 containers and have them all up on the roof. I have a rooftop garden terrace! Nice right? Not really. I cut liter Coke bottles in half and cut holes in the cover and hung them up with string. It's a small garden but let's hope that when I plant all the seeds Mom sent from home I will have a nice herb garden to give away to all the families that were part of the garbage separation project.
This weekend will be relaxing, but nothing like the last one. I need to go and fix up my tree nursery with the kids at the school since weeds are taking over. I may road trip to Thies to hit up the market and artisan center but besides that I don't have much planned. I wish I could just spend the weekend in West Bend - dancing at a friend's summer wedding is where I'd rather be!
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Toubab in Touba
So today was an interesting day, to say the least. To explain a few things first: I live in Bambey, which is its own Department, that is included in the region of Diourbel. Maybe this is like states and counties, but on a much smaller scale, since then entire country of Senegal is the size of South Dakota. Every Department has a mayor, for exampe. I have heard that Bambey is the poorest department in Senegal, and Diourbel is quite possibly one of the poorest regions. Everyone leaves to work elsewhere with the highest goal of leaving the country. Touba is east of Diourbel, but still part of the region. It is the religious capital for Mourides: a brotherhood of Islam. Touba is the pilgrimage site for Magal, that I have talked about in the past, where millions of people all go to pray and celebrate their late leader's anniversary of returning to Senegal, from somewhere. Okay, don't hold me to that, it could be his birthday, not exactly sure. But it last ocurred in February so I won't get to go back to Touba. Which, maybe is ok!
Last night, an RPCV, John, gave me a call. He served in Cameroon til 2003 and just finished Law School and needed a break from America so came to West Africa for like 6 weeks. Randomly, he met someone who new someone who knew me and I got a call. We decided to go to Touba together.
I had heard that Touba is conservative and that I need to wear my Senegalese attire. No problem, I have quite a few different ensembles but had to pick the one that covered me the most. I have a few with no sleeves so those were out. I chose my newest one that has a head scarf too thinking this would be perfect: wrong. It is pants with a boubou (shirt) that goes down to the middle of my shins. Well, pants are apparently illegal in Touba.
We got to Touba early, around 8:30ish and found breakfast and walked to the Grande Mosquee. It was easy to find! We walked up and sure enough, a bayefall (typical mouride) walks up and introduces himself. John and I assumed this would happen so he walks with us talking about the mosque and Touba and notices immediatly that I need to cover up. We walk over to some women sitting across from the mosque and take a skirt to wrap around my pants and a shall to cover my already covered hair. We took off our shoes and got the tour from the bayefall. He told us which tiles came from France and what hand painted murals were imported from Morocco and all the other international influences. And John tried very hard to get into the mosque but since we aren't Muslim, the bayefall said no. He obviously had a better shot than I did but still no luck.
After giving back my additional clothing, we wandered around the market and took a charet ride around town. By 1 it was pretty hot and unbearable and we decided to head back to the garage to make it home. I was getting harrassed by just about anyone since I wasn't wearing a skirt and getting more and more irritated. I was nearly refused lunch at a restaurant and so we decided to just skip it! I understand, in a way, that they want to keep traditions and sure, they have their reasons, but honestly, I tried to please these people in my pretty boubou and didn't succeed.
Oh well, Touba was for sure an experience I figured you all would be interested in. I attached a few pictures so check out the link called Baol Baol (the region of Diourbel's nickname). There are also photos from a baptism on there from a few days ago since my work partner asked me to go around and take pictures of everyone for him. Enjoy!
Last night, an RPCV, John, gave me a call. He served in Cameroon til 2003 and just finished Law School and needed a break from America so came to West Africa for like 6 weeks. Randomly, he met someone who new someone who knew me and I got a call. We decided to go to Touba together.
I had heard that Touba is conservative and that I need to wear my Senegalese attire. No problem, I have quite a few different ensembles but had to pick the one that covered me the most. I have a few with no sleeves so those were out. I chose my newest one that has a head scarf too thinking this would be perfect: wrong. It is pants with a boubou (shirt) that goes down to the middle of my shins. Well, pants are apparently illegal in Touba.
We got to Touba early, around 8:30ish and found breakfast and walked to the Grande Mosquee. It was easy to find! We walked up and sure enough, a bayefall (typical mouride) walks up and introduces himself. John and I assumed this would happen so he walks with us talking about the mosque and Touba and notices immediatly that I need to cover up. We walk over to some women sitting across from the mosque and take a skirt to wrap around my pants and a shall to cover my already covered hair. We took off our shoes and got the tour from the bayefall. He told us which tiles came from France and what hand painted murals were imported from Morocco and all the other international influences. And John tried very hard to get into the mosque but since we aren't Muslim, the bayefall said no. He obviously had a better shot than I did but still no luck.
After giving back my additional clothing, we wandered around the market and took a charet ride around town. By 1 it was pretty hot and unbearable and we decided to head back to the garage to make it home. I was getting harrassed by just about anyone since I wasn't wearing a skirt and getting more and more irritated. I was nearly refused lunch at a restaurant and so we decided to just skip it! I understand, in a way, that they want to keep traditions and sure, they have their reasons, but honestly, I tried to please these people in my pretty boubou and didn't succeed.
Oh well, Touba was for sure an experience I figured you all would be interested in. I attached a few pictures so check out the link called Baol Baol (the region of Diourbel's nickname). There are also photos from a baptism on there from a few days ago since my work partner asked me to go around and take pictures of everyone for him. Enjoy!
Monday, July 6, 2009
Sparklers in Africa
During the holidays, we PCVs try our best to bring American traditions to Africa. It doesn't always work but I think the 4th was just about as close as we could get. Last year I went down to Kedougou and celebrated with about 50 others where we had a pig roast and ate cole slaw and potato salad. This year it was just 4 of us, but we didn't have to take public transport 12 hours! We ate hot dogs and hamburgers on the grill and home made chili. We even had sparklers - they smell like the 4th of July back home! So it was no riverside, no finales, but that will only make next year that much more fun!
So I have gotten over my fever and have been left only with a cough and runny nose. I didn't leave my room much when I was sick and tried my best to call work partners, everyone of them who said, "Ouria - you sound horrible, you need to rest". Which is exactly what I did. My friend's parents came to visit her and they just happen to have a time share in Saly, Senegal. I got the invite to hang out at a 5 star resort for 3 nights and loved every minute of it. We had a 2 story hut with a kitchen and air conditioning. The pool was beautiful with wifi access. I read Harry Potter (now on number 6 and loving it!) and bought pretty necklaces on the beach.
So now that I am back, and feeling good, I have begun the work that I have been dreading. My compost project, as you know, kind of, well, failed. Eh, I hate to admit it. Shoulda, woulda, coulda... and it might have been a success. So today I wandered around to my houses who all have garbage cans to talk to them. I now have more than one source that tells me my donkey cart driver, Djebaye doesn't do his job. If there is no one to collect daily, families are forced to dump their trash else where. It is no longer separated, organic and non-organic, and just thrown out in the clearings. I have called the people at the mayor's office but they are too busy actually doing things for the town. Yes, this is a great thing: they are clearing out canals and making Bambey more live-able since it suffers from extreme flooding. So the assistant mayor said after they are done dealing with the rain, they will get to my project. Or, I should say, my replacement's project since I will be State-side when there is no more flooding! I still have to deal with my families who wanted this project and Djebaye, who is going to be very unwilling to give me back the supplies that I rented. He has "lost" a brand new wheelbarrow making me look real bad since I'm the one who has to go back and apologize.
Besides that, I have plans to get to Ndem in the next few days and show them my progress on selecting a Winter and Summer Collection. I would really like to find them some good contacts in America but still, have been unlucky. I have put together documents using Microsoft Publisher and will email them off to a few possible clients. Let's hope this new approach works!
Hope you all enjoyed your 4th, lit sparklers and enjoyed the finale! It's great knowing that I am running out of traditional American holidays to celebrate with a Senegalese twist. I'll be home for the best ones: Thanksgiving, Cookie Bake (yes, thats a holiday in my world) and Christmas!
So I have gotten over my fever and have been left only with a cough and runny nose. I didn't leave my room much when I was sick and tried my best to call work partners, everyone of them who said, "Ouria - you sound horrible, you need to rest". Which is exactly what I did. My friend's parents came to visit her and they just happen to have a time share in Saly, Senegal. I got the invite to hang out at a 5 star resort for 3 nights and loved every minute of it. We had a 2 story hut with a kitchen and air conditioning. The pool was beautiful with wifi access. I read Harry Potter (now on number 6 and loving it!) and bought pretty necklaces on the beach.
So now that I am back, and feeling good, I have begun the work that I have been dreading. My compost project, as you know, kind of, well, failed. Eh, I hate to admit it. Shoulda, woulda, coulda... and it might have been a success. So today I wandered around to my houses who all have garbage cans to talk to them. I now have more than one source that tells me my donkey cart driver, Djebaye doesn't do his job. If there is no one to collect daily, families are forced to dump their trash else where. It is no longer separated, organic and non-organic, and just thrown out in the clearings. I have called the people at the mayor's office but they are too busy actually doing things for the town. Yes, this is a great thing: they are clearing out canals and making Bambey more live-able since it suffers from extreme flooding. So the assistant mayor said after they are done dealing with the rain, they will get to my project. Or, I should say, my replacement's project since I will be State-side when there is no more flooding! I still have to deal with my families who wanted this project and Djebaye, who is going to be very unwilling to give me back the supplies that I rented. He has "lost" a brand new wheelbarrow making me look real bad since I'm the one who has to go back and apologize.
Besides that, I have plans to get to Ndem in the next few days and show them my progress on selecting a Winter and Summer Collection. I would really like to find them some good contacts in America but still, have been unlucky. I have put together documents using Microsoft Publisher and will email them off to a few possible clients. Let's hope this new approach works!
Hope you all enjoyed your 4th, lit sparklers and enjoyed the finale! It's great knowing that I am running out of traditional American holidays to celebrate with a Senegalese twist. I'll be home for the best ones: Thanksgiving, Cookie Bake (yes, thats a holiday in my world) and Christmas!
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Feverish
And I'm back in Bambey! It's good to be back, although I'm sick with a fever and after just one rain Bambey has sitting water. Why am I sick you ask? Seriously, my best answer is air conditioning for almost a week! Geez... what is going to happen to me when I move home this fall?
After I wrote that last entry, I went back to the airport and borded my flight from Togo to Cote d'Ivoire where I had a lay over. I soon found out that they weren't running on time. They said it would leave at 3am rather than 11pm. I was kind of upset since that shot the whole idea of sleeping but I would still make it to my conference. The company bought me dinner (burnt tuna sandwich, but better than nothing) And then 3am rolled around and no plane was in site. I couldn't sleep since the air conditioning was on full blast and the chairs were all metal. I paced back and forth the empty terminal until 5am when we heard the engines of the plane. We boarded shortly after and I saw sunrise from above the clouds.
I arrived in Dakar around 9am and walked into my conference to all my stage-mates clapping. "Yeah, Togo! You made it!" I was exhausted and zoning in and out but so glad to be there. The COS conference was overwhelming, to say the least. We discussed how to write a resume and all about job shaddowing and networking among ReturnedPCVs. Good news is they say PCVs don't have too much trouble finding a job if we are dedicated to searching. We also talked about the readjustment and how, it seems, all you people back home aren't going to understand me. Hmm. So I have a lot of adjusting to do but if you're patient, I swear I will learn how to be an American again!
Which will happen the end of September! I got an Early COS approved for Sept 23 and will fly home shortly after. (I have decided not to travel after I COS but simply come home to red, orange and yellow leaves rather than snow!) I have plenty to do before I can think about it: accouting and marketing trainings, outplanting of my trees, closing up of my compost project, and a possible start up of a city-wide collection system with the mayor. I will start it all when my body temperature is lower than the heat outside! I'm sure the fact that I'm on meds that lower my immune system, I'm a bit stressed about the future and that I didn't get as much sleep as I am used to also played into a cooler temperature that caused such a bad head cold. But I'll live. Nap time. :-)
PS Enjoy the new pictures I put up from my vacation!
After I wrote that last entry, I went back to the airport and borded my flight from Togo to Cote d'Ivoire where I had a lay over. I soon found out that they weren't running on time. They said it would leave at 3am rather than 11pm. I was kind of upset since that shot the whole idea of sleeping but I would still make it to my conference. The company bought me dinner (burnt tuna sandwich, but better than nothing) And then 3am rolled around and no plane was in site. I couldn't sleep since the air conditioning was on full blast and the chairs were all metal. I paced back and forth the empty terminal until 5am when we heard the engines of the plane. We boarded shortly after and I saw sunrise from above the clouds.
I arrived in Dakar around 9am and walked into my conference to all my stage-mates clapping. "Yeah, Togo! You made it!" I was exhausted and zoning in and out but so glad to be there. The COS conference was overwhelming, to say the least. We discussed how to write a resume and all about job shaddowing and networking among ReturnedPCVs. Good news is they say PCVs don't have too much trouble finding a job if we are dedicated to searching. We also talked about the readjustment and how, it seems, all you people back home aren't going to understand me. Hmm. So I have a lot of adjusting to do but if you're patient, I swear I will learn how to be an American again!
Which will happen the end of September! I got an Early COS approved for Sept 23 and will fly home shortly after. (I have decided not to travel after I COS but simply come home to red, orange and yellow leaves rather than snow!) I have plenty to do before I can think about it: accouting and marketing trainings, outplanting of my trees, closing up of my compost project, and a possible start up of a city-wide collection system with the mayor. I will start it all when my body temperature is lower than the heat outside! I'm sure the fact that I'm on meds that lower my immune system, I'm a bit stressed about the future and that I didn't get as much sleep as I am used to also played into a cooler temperature that caused such a bad head cold. But I'll live. Nap time. :-)
PS Enjoy the new pictures I put up from my vacation!
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Traveling in West Africa
I flew out of Dakar on the 8th and went from the Togo airport north to Kpalime. I didn't feel comfortable speaking in French and really prefer the edge I get from speaking the national language in Senegal. Togo is beautiful, tropic and green but humid since I am used to the desert heat. I took a day trip outside the city to see a couple waterfalls - one huge and impressive, the other small but with a wading pool. That afternoon I bought pottery from artisans and enjoyed my first electric lightening storm in a while.
After 2 nights in Togo, I went to Ho, Ghana. A sudden switch at the border and everything is English - now I really wish I spoke a different language! Wierd though right? I guess I just really hate being a tourist in Africa. In Ho I met a few PCVs. One has been here about8 months and works at an NGO who make clothing for Global Mamas, a fair trade store. Very cool. The other volunteer is actually just a trainee, since it was her demyst week. The next morning I went to meet up with another volunteer in his site that is a Kente weaving village. It attracts quite a few tourists hoping to buy the traditional woven artwork.
Later that afternoon, I went to Accra to meet up with my friend Meghan at the USAID-WATH office. It was nice to check email and catch up with a work partner. Meghan's boss and I exchange emails often about exportable artisans' products. And going to Meghan's apartment was wonderful - air conditioning and direct satalite tv! The next morning, I went to the Aburi botanical gardens - amazing! And since Meghan is far too busy preparing for an expo in NYC, I went to the beach for the weekend.
The Green Turtle is an eco-tourism site and beautiful. The food was incredible and I roughed it the first night in a tent, damp from the close proximity to the waves and without a ziper to close off the mosquitos. The next day I was upgraded to a dorm. There is a beautiful beach but it rained all day so I enjoyed the view but don't have tanlines to prove it. After 2 nights, I was ready to get back to civilization so I went to Cape Coast with high hopes. I saw a castle one day and went on a hike in seach of elephants the next. There is a national park about 30k north of Cape but since it rained all morning I got a later start than the elephants. They were long gone but we saw where they ate breakfast and I learned a lot about trees from my armed guard. He made sure to explain to me that the gun was not for me, it was for the animals in cas ethey attack. A stressful carride back made me contemplateleaving Africa NOW but I stuck it out... lets just say the driver and I had our differences that attracted attention of 50+ people. My problem is that I feel since I am a development worker that I know Africa and shouldn't be cheated. Well, in Ghana I am just another foreigner to take advantage of.
So I left Cape Coast for Winneba and got a sea-view room with a balcony big enough for a huge bbq. I took a long walk down the beach since several kilometers is a lagoon. It was peaceful and empty! A long walk while talking to my mom was exactly what I needed. And the next 2 nights made up for that nights' mice infested room! I went back to Meghan's and enjoyed a bubble bath, homemade dinners and the style network! I was as happy as can be!
Yesterday I traveled across the border where I am now stuck: Togo. I showed up nice and early at the airport since you never really know what the african airlines will throw at you. Surprise surprise - Air Ivoire cancelled every single flight today! So much for making it home... I will now miss my first day of the Close of Service Conference. This is the first time since Feb 08 that my stage has gotten together. We all have come a long way and have plenty to talk about to plan our lives post-PC and I get to miss 1/3 of that and couldn't be more upset. It's one thing to miss a flight home from Paris when it was MY FAULT. Its another when I havent really enjoy my2 weeks of solitude and just crave what I know is normal. Just for me, please appreciate where you are today and don't take for granted the simplicity of travel and life in general.
After 2 nights in Togo, I went to Ho, Ghana. A sudden switch at the border and everything is English - now I really wish I spoke a different language! Wierd though right? I guess I just really hate being a tourist in Africa. In Ho I met a few PCVs. One has been here about8 months and works at an NGO who make clothing for Global Mamas, a fair trade store. Very cool. The other volunteer is actually just a trainee, since it was her demyst week. The next morning I went to meet up with another volunteer in his site that is a Kente weaving village. It attracts quite a few tourists hoping to buy the traditional woven artwork.
Later that afternoon, I went to Accra to meet up with my friend Meghan at the USAID-WATH office. It was nice to check email and catch up with a work partner. Meghan's boss and I exchange emails often about exportable artisans' products. And going to Meghan's apartment was wonderful - air conditioning and direct satalite tv! The next morning, I went to the Aburi botanical gardens - amazing! And since Meghan is far too busy preparing for an expo in NYC, I went to the beach for the weekend.
The Green Turtle is an eco-tourism site and beautiful. The food was incredible and I roughed it the first night in a tent, damp from the close proximity to the waves and without a ziper to close off the mosquitos. The next day I was upgraded to a dorm. There is a beautiful beach but it rained all day so I enjoyed the view but don't have tanlines to prove it. After 2 nights, I was ready to get back to civilization so I went to Cape Coast with high hopes. I saw a castle one day and went on a hike in seach of elephants the next. There is a national park about 30k north of Cape but since it rained all morning I got a later start than the elephants. They were long gone but we saw where they ate breakfast and I learned a lot about trees from my armed guard. He made sure to explain to me that the gun was not for me, it was for the animals in cas ethey attack. A stressful carride back made me contemplateleaving Africa NOW but I stuck it out... lets just say the driver and I had our differences that attracted attention of 50+ people. My problem is that I feel since I am a development worker that I know Africa and shouldn't be cheated. Well, in Ghana I am just another foreigner to take advantage of.
So I left Cape Coast for Winneba and got a sea-view room with a balcony big enough for a huge bbq. I took a long walk down the beach since several kilometers is a lagoon. It was peaceful and empty! A long walk while talking to my mom was exactly what I needed. And the next 2 nights made up for that nights' mice infested room! I went back to Meghan's and enjoyed a bubble bath, homemade dinners and the style network! I was as happy as can be!
Yesterday I traveled across the border where I am now stuck: Togo. I showed up nice and early at the airport since you never really know what the african airlines will throw at you. Surprise surprise - Air Ivoire cancelled every single flight today! So much for making it home... I will now miss my first day of the Close of Service Conference. This is the first time since Feb 08 that my stage has gotten together. We all have come a long way and have plenty to talk about to plan our lives post-PC and I get to miss 1/3 of that and couldn't be more upset. It's one thing to miss a flight home from Paris when it was MY FAULT. Its another when I havent really enjoy my2 weeks of solitude and just crave what I know is normal. Just for me, please appreciate where you are today and don't take for granted the simplicity of travel and life in general.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
Expo - 3x the fun!
Success! We just finished our third artisan exposition in Dakar. We got funding for this expo and had a training before hand taught by our Peace Corps trainer. The artisans learned all about networking among themselves and about quality control, product development and the importance of accounting. They all got so much out of it and I have plenty to work on now that 2 of my work partners want me to teach accounting and online marketing. Its nice to have motivated work partners!
Life in Bambey is slow work-wise. I am happy to start up accounting and marketing classes but I am hesitant to start other new projects at this point in my service. My compost project with the mayor is on hold. Politics...
I moved into a new neighborhood that is under sea-level from what I remember from last rainy season. So honestly, I don't anticipate wading through the water! That was a new verb I learned just last week talking to people about it. Hoos: to wade through deep water. Wonderful. And sitting water in this country isn't the cleanest. So in order to stay healthy, I'll check in with my work partners often by phone, but I plan to find projects elsewhere so my time there is limited.
Well, I am off on vacation for the next 2 weeks! I fly to Togo tomorrow and will see the waterfalls there for a few days before heading to Ghana for a some more waterfalls, chateaux and beaches! Should be a good time! I'll get back with a few stories and pictures to share with all of you!
Life in Bambey is slow work-wise. I am happy to start up accounting and marketing classes but I am hesitant to start other new projects at this point in my service. My compost project with the mayor is on hold. Politics...
I moved into a new neighborhood that is under sea-level from what I remember from last rainy season. So honestly, I don't anticipate wading through the water! That was a new verb I learned just last week talking to people about it. Hoos: to wade through deep water. Wonderful. And sitting water in this country isn't the cleanest. So in order to stay healthy, I'll check in with my work partners often by phone, but I plan to find projects elsewhere so my time there is limited.
Well, I am off on vacation for the next 2 weeks! I fly to Togo tomorrow and will see the waterfalls there for a few days before heading to Ghana for a some more waterfalls, chateaux and beaches! Should be a good time! I'll get back with a few stories and pictures to share with all of you!
Monday, May 25, 2009
The Roads in Guinea are Bad!
I crossed another border! Traveling in West Africa is pretty crazy, but first let me explain what I did before my spontaneous decision to visit Guinea.
On Thursday, 7 of us rented out a car and made the 12 hour trek to Kedougou. Our gift upon arrival: RAIN! It felt amazing after such a long car ride. The next morning, we hiked about 7k to visit five hippos in a river. Don’t worry Dad, we didn’t get too close! Truthfully, they were pretty lazy in the late morning and stood up once or twice but didn’t put on much of a show. Saturday we went to Salemata, to spend the night on the ground since the campement couldn’t exactly provide us beds. And the next morning was the Bassari Rights Festival.
Kedougou is in the far south-east corner of Senegal and it looks and feels nothing like the rest of the country with its mountains, waterfalls and animists! There is an ethnic group called Bassari that live outside of the Salemata, south of Kedougou. Every year, a group of boys come of age and go through an initiation rights ceremony. The night prior to the circumcision, there is dancing done by the already-initiated men of the village. The next day, hundreds of men dress up with traditional masks and beading with red paint from head to two. They blow whistles and cry out, and when all of them do it, it gets pretty noisy! There is a fight between the already-initiated and the boys in their late teens, but this fight can’t be filmed, nor watched by women. I guess I would lose my fertility if I watched such an event! It was still pretty incredible that such a tradition has lasted through all the years of influence by the west. I mean, people were selling t-shirts of Barack Obama at the event!
The next morning, Erin and I biked to the garage to scope it out. A few of our friends have gone to Guinea and all of them have said it takes about 3 days to fill up a car, since transport won’t leave until it has enough people to pay for the gas. Well, we showed up and as they were putting baggage on top of the pick-up, they said “Yes, we have 2 spots available!” Erin and I weren’t really expecting that. So we biked back to the house and went back and forth. Should we go? Should we wait to go with Pulaar speakers? Should we wait and bike in July (since transport is even slower in the rainy season)? ….
So we are going then?! We packed up quickly, called our Safety Security Coordinator and got vacation days approved and were on our way to a city called Labe, 300k, or 200mi south of Kedougou. It took 27 hours. No joke. We stopped a few times since the pick-up truck had 32 people and baggage and couldn’t make it up the mountain with all of us. Yes: 32. There were 3 people in the front, 3 on top of the baggage on the roof, 5 nursing babies, 2 toddlers and 19 adults crammed in the back of a pick-up. We stopped other times to pray and cool down the engine and other times since we needed to get out when we nearly tipped over. The road was AWEFUL and all uphill. Kedougou is at sea-level and Guinea has mountains at over 1500 meters. We stopped for dinner at 10:30pm (yes, we left just after breakfast and only had a few cookies and a mango) and slept for almost 8 hours in some village. No one told us this would happen. We thought we were just stopping to eat and then they told us to lie down. Erin and I figured they wouldn’t leave without their 2 toubabs so we took up the chance to sleep on some cots made out of bamboo and palms. Better than the ground but not all that great of a night’s sleep. We woke up at sunrise and were back on the “road”. We made it to Labe and made the biggest, best tasting spaghetti either of us had ever tasted. Then we wandered around town to stretch our legs. We found numbers of other PCVs in Guinea who gave us advice on what to do. Obviously, we didn’t have much planned!
The next morning, although it was raining like crazy, we rented a car out and had a driver take us to the Chutes de Saala – a very impressive waterfall! So cool: we got to walk all around it since the water level was so low. That evening we hung out with some PCVs and woke up early the next day to get back in the car to go to Mali (a city in Guinea). In Senegal, a 7-place is a station wagon that has 7 seats, for 7 people. Makes since right? Well, this one had 16. Guinea is crazy! We got to Mali and met their SED volunteer after finding out that the car that goes to Kedougou “just left” and that “this one will leave on Sunday, Inchallah”. I think the “God willing” part was the fact that the sad looking truck only had 3 tires. It was Thursday. We needed to get back to site, so we got a list of villages, food, water and tape on our feet and within a few hours, we started hiking to the top of the last mountain that was uphill on the way to Senegal, the Grande Dame de Mali. It’s a rock formation that looks like the face and body of a woman. We decided to get a few kilometers head start and stay at a campement that the volunteer works at and get the advice of people who supposedly do this hike all the time.
These experts said it would take 7 hours and that there was no way we would get lost. Well, Erin and I have been here long enough to know that was BS. We hired a guide and didn’t regret a single cent! We left the campement at 6:15. The toughest part was getting down the mountain. Our guide knew all the shortcuts and Erin and I just kept looking back at the Dame de Mali, completely impressed with ourselves; she just kept getting smaller and further away! We ate hard boiled eggs, bread, tomatoes, sardines and mangoes and oranges. We stopped in every village to get more water and probably drank about 5 liters each. We rested from 1-2:30 and were really starting to question ourselves. I took off my tennis shoes at 3ish and switched to less invasive flip flops. I had one blister the size of a quarter on my big toe and 6 others. Ouch. But then, before 5, Alseny, our guide, turned around and said, “We’re in Senegal”. Wait a minute – no border crossing?! The next people we met said Dindefelo is just at the bottom of this mountain. That’s where a fellow PVC lives and works with a campement! YES! The last mountain was the toughest. Have I ever been this sore?! Erin twisted her ankle but was so determined to get down that it didn’t slow her much. We made it at 5:45pm. So this is what we figured: about 12 hours, about 3 miles an hour, if we figure terrain, breaks, heat and exhaustion: anywhere from 30 to 40 miles!
The people at the camepment took such great care of us. It was wonderful to speak Wolof again instead of Pulaar greetings and French. We ate dinner and slept so well. Everyone laughed at how slowly we were moving but were utterly impressed. As were Erin and I:
“Erin, remember when we walked from Guinea”
“Kira, we didn’t walk! We hiked! We’re awesome!”
This will go down as unforgettable forever. The roads are bad! So we walked back! No, we hiked back!
And you would think that was it right? Nope, Dindefelo has one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Senegal that is spring fed, so thus unaffected by the amount of rainfall. It was the most relaxing morning swimming and recounting our story of the day before. And although we were at first annoyed with the other tourists commenting on how slowly we were moving, they ended up giving us a free, air conditioned ride back, with seat belts!
There would have been no way to actually plan this trip – being spontaneous pays off! It was so much fun! Best 10 days I have had in a long time!
On Thursday, 7 of us rented out a car and made the 12 hour trek to Kedougou. Our gift upon arrival: RAIN! It felt amazing after such a long car ride. The next morning, we hiked about 7k to visit five hippos in a river. Don’t worry Dad, we didn’t get too close! Truthfully, they were pretty lazy in the late morning and stood up once or twice but didn’t put on much of a show. Saturday we went to Salemata, to spend the night on the ground since the campement couldn’t exactly provide us beds. And the next morning was the Bassari Rights Festival.
Kedougou is in the far south-east corner of Senegal and it looks and feels nothing like the rest of the country with its mountains, waterfalls and animists! There is an ethnic group called Bassari that live outside of the Salemata, south of Kedougou. Every year, a group of boys come of age and go through an initiation rights ceremony. The night prior to the circumcision, there is dancing done by the already-initiated men of the village. The next day, hundreds of men dress up with traditional masks and beading with red paint from head to two. They blow whistles and cry out, and when all of them do it, it gets pretty noisy! There is a fight between the already-initiated and the boys in their late teens, but this fight can’t be filmed, nor watched by women. I guess I would lose my fertility if I watched such an event! It was still pretty incredible that such a tradition has lasted through all the years of influence by the west. I mean, people were selling t-shirts of Barack Obama at the event!
The next morning, Erin and I biked to the garage to scope it out. A few of our friends have gone to Guinea and all of them have said it takes about 3 days to fill up a car, since transport won’t leave until it has enough people to pay for the gas. Well, we showed up and as they were putting baggage on top of the pick-up, they said “Yes, we have 2 spots available!” Erin and I weren’t really expecting that. So we biked back to the house and went back and forth. Should we go? Should we wait to go with Pulaar speakers? Should we wait and bike in July (since transport is even slower in the rainy season)? ….
So we are going then?! We packed up quickly, called our Safety Security Coordinator and got vacation days approved and were on our way to a city called Labe, 300k, or 200mi south of Kedougou. It took 27 hours. No joke. We stopped a few times since the pick-up truck had 32 people and baggage and couldn’t make it up the mountain with all of us. Yes: 32. There were 3 people in the front, 3 on top of the baggage on the roof, 5 nursing babies, 2 toddlers and 19 adults crammed in the back of a pick-up. We stopped other times to pray and cool down the engine and other times since we needed to get out when we nearly tipped over. The road was AWEFUL and all uphill. Kedougou is at sea-level and Guinea has mountains at over 1500 meters. We stopped for dinner at 10:30pm (yes, we left just after breakfast and only had a few cookies and a mango) and slept for almost 8 hours in some village. No one told us this would happen. We thought we were just stopping to eat and then they told us to lie down. Erin and I figured they wouldn’t leave without their 2 toubabs so we took up the chance to sleep on some cots made out of bamboo and palms. Better than the ground but not all that great of a night’s sleep. We woke up at sunrise and were back on the “road”. We made it to Labe and made the biggest, best tasting spaghetti either of us had ever tasted. Then we wandered around town to stretch our legs. We found numbers of other PCVs in Guinea who gave us advice on what to do. Obviously, we didn’t have much planned!
The next morning, although it was raining like crazy, we rented a car out and had a driver take us to the Chutes de Saala – a very impressive waterfall! So cool: we got to walk all around it since the water level was so low. That evening we hung out with some PCVs and woke up early the next day to get back in the car to go to Mali (a city in Guinea). In Senegal, a 7-place is a station wagon that has 7 seats, for 7 people. Makes since right? Well, this one had 16. Guinea is crazy! We got to Mali and met their SED volunteer after finding out that the car that goes to Kedougou “just left” and that “this one will leave on Sunday, Inchallah”. I think the “God willing” part was the fact that the sad looking truck only had 3 tires. It was Thursday. We needed to get back to site, so we got a list of villages, food, water and tape on our feet and within a few hours, we started hiking to the top of the last mountain that was uphill on the way to Senegal, the Grande Dame de Mali. It’s a rock formation that looks like the face and body of a woman. We decided to get a few kilometers head start and stay at a campement that the volunteer works at and get the advice of people who supposedly do this hike all the time.
These experts said it would take 7 hours and that there was no way we would get lost. Well, Erin and I have been here long enough to know that was BS. We hired a guide and didn’t regret a single cent! We left the campement at 6:15. The toughest part was getting down the mountain. Our guide knew all the shortcuts and Erin and I just kept looking back at the Dame de Mali, completely impressed with ourselves; she just kept getting smaller and further away! We ate hard boiled eggs, bread, tomatoes, sardines and mangoes and oranges. We stopped in every village to get more water and probably drank about 5 liters each. We rested from 1-2:30 and were really starting to question ourselves. I took off my tennis shoes at 3ish and switched to less invasive flip flops. I had one blister the size of a quarter on my big toe and 6 others. Ouch. But then, before 5, Alseny, our guide, turned around and said, “We’re in Senegal”. Wait a minute – no border crossing?! The next people we met said Dindefelo is just at the bottom of this mountain. That’s where a fellow PVC lives and works with a campement! YES! The last mountain was the toughest. Have I ever been this sore?! Erin twisted her ankle but was so determined to get down that it didn’t slow her much. We made it at 5:45pm. So this is what we figured: about 12 hours, about 3 miles an hour, if we figure terrain, breaks, heat and exhaustion: anywhere from 30 to 40 miles!
The people at the camepment took such great care of us. It was wonderful to speak Wolof again instead of Pulaar greetings and French. We ate dinner and slept so well. Everyone laughed at how slowly we were moving but were utterly impressed. As were Erin and I:
“Erin, remember when we walked from Guinea”
“Kira, we didn’t walk! We hiked! We’re awesome!”
This will go down as unforgettable forever. The roads are bad! So we walked back! No, we hiked back!
And you would think that was it right? Nope, Dindefelo has one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Senegal that is spring fed, so thus unaffected by the amount of rainfall. It was the most relaxing morning swimming and recounting our story of the day before. And although we were at first annoyed with the other tourists commenting on how slowly we were moving, they ended up giving us a free, air conditioned ride back, with seat belts!
There would have been no way to actually plan this trip – being spontaneous pays off! It was so much fun! Best 10 days I have had in a long time!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
